Can’t wait to get back into the water soon!

Today was a good day. It’s been a tricky week for me. I have not been able to surf or train because I have strained my intercostal (rib) muscles, which I have to say is one of the most irritating and frustrating injuries I have yet to have. There is little you can do in terms of recuperation for this kind of injury apart from resting, and I HATE resting haha. I don’t know how to rest . I love surfing, it’s my life, it’s my ambition, it’s my motivation; so when an injury takes all of that away from me, I end up feeling lost, lazy, and to be honest bored. There’s only so many hours in the day I can sleep haha! It’s only been a week of the three weeks I was told to “rest” by the doctor, but because it was the Soulstice Contest today on my home beach, I decided that it was in my deed to go out and surf the contest. In terms of my injury it was not a good idea, but for my mental state (the important one!) I felt a million times better. There is nothing that makes me feel more happy than being out there in the water and surfing…ever. It’s amazing, and that’s why I surf, and also why I cannot live without surfing. The waves in the contest were super fun; it felt so awesome to be back in the ocean. I ended up winning the girls, and winning a brand new board!!! I couldn’t be happier. I have had my magic board now for just over 2 years. Yes, the same board haha, day in, day out, surfing it pretty much every day for over two years. Today has been my lucky day. I won a brand new board, and managed to pick up a board with my perfect dimensions for $200 from another competitor. Injury karma was definitely working in my favour! Although these next two weeks I will not be able to surf, I am so stoked on my new quiver that I may be able to hold it together and stay in my positive spirit haha. I have a full surf camp this week with an awesome Rica Surf group, and I can’t wait to teach them all we know and love about surfing. Before I know it, I will be back in the water trying my new boards and once again back into training and learning new things…MAY THE TIME PASS FAST!
I would like to thank Las Olas for the amazing contest today in Playa Hermosa. There was a great turn out of competitors, sponsors, and spectators that carried good vibes throughout the beach and made the contest so enjoyable for everyone, thank you! We are all definitely looking forward to next years event and another fabulous day of beach cleaning, surfing, and good vibes in Playa Hermosa…Pura Vida!!!

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